Sommeliers in diapers

WINE. Malia Llerena happily sips chardonnay, zinfandel, Champagne and merlot. She knows red wine goes in the larger glasses and Champagne gets the long, skinny flutes. After all, she’s already 5 years old.

As American foodie culture has evolved, parents like Llerena’s have adopted the southern European custom of offering young children small amounts of wine, hoping to remove the forbidden fruit appeal and teach an appreciation for fine dining.

Many parents and health officials are appalled by the practice, citing concerns about alcohol’s effect on developing brains. Proponents argue more harm comes from diets of processed foods and soda pop.

“In the Mediterranean, especially in Greece, many people make their own wine and children partake in the process, learning the agricultural side of it in a village setting,” says Greek food writer Diane Kochilas.

“Offering a sip of something that is sanctioned culturally, religiously and even scientifically — a glass or two of red wine is good for us — in the Mediterranean is hardly akin to setting a child on the path to alcoholism,” she says.“We aren’t going to give her a full glass of wine,” says Llerena’s father. In fact, her wine is often watered down. “It’s not like were giving her shots of tequila!”