Published 2008-05-08 02:09

Walking Madeira’s levadas
Encounter natural treasures in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean
Trail info
Caldeirão Verde: This trail starts at the Parque Florestal das Queimadas (Queimadas Forest Park) and goes along the Caldeirão Verde levada, at an altitude of 3,250 feet. Don’t forget your flashlight (8 miles round trip).
Ribeiro Frio-Portela: An easy walk that starts at Ribeiro Frio and takes you along a level path to Portela (6 miles round trip).
25 Fontes: Starts at Rabaçal and takes you to the 25 Fontes lake that 25 small natural spring waterfalls cascade into. There’s a shuttle from Calheta that takes walkers to the Casa do Rabaçal, where the levada starts. If you have time, make the 15-minute detour to the Risco for incredible views. Some parts of the levada don’t have a fence, so walk carefully (7 miles round trip).
With its emerald green forests, path walks over cliffs, tropical flowers, mysterious tunnels and adventurous trails, the island of Madeira is a must for fans of nature and fresh air rambling.
This Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean 310 miles west of Africa and 620 miles from Europe is famous for its exotic flowers and mild weather. It also offers a unique way of exploring the land — strolling along the levadas.
Levadas are pathways carved in the rock alongside the irrigation canals that bring water from the northern, that is, wetter hills of the island to the south. The levadas were built by early settlers and are an ingenious system of aqueducts that run through the luxuriant green landscape. The Atlantic Ocean is there all the while, within sight from every point, even at the highest spots. Mix all of this with the flat and easy trails, and you have an unforgettable holiday in the middle of nature, on an island that has much more to offer than just sea, sun and gardens.
There are more than 200 levadas over a distance of more than 1,500 miles, and thanks to the varied geography and relief of Madeira, there are plenty of options for walks.
The one route that always fascinates visitors is the Caldeirão Verde, a 4-mile-long work of art built in the 19th century. This levada is full of surprises, including long tunnels and caves with breathtaking views. At the end of the levada is the ultimate reward — an enormous rock canyon and a long waterfall with a flow that varies depending on the season. It’s a magnificent place that invades your senses.
It’s also the perfect place to take a snack break and regain your strength, sitting on top of the big rocks as you contemplate the intricate Madeira mountains and magnificent Laurissilva Forest, classified by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site.
The return journey is made without rush and with the restorative sensation that only mountains can offer. Your legs may feel a bit heavier, but the levadas walks are on flat terrain, so the journey is not that difficult. But if you prefer a shorter distance, you can try the Ribeiro Frio-Portela levada or the 25 Fontes levada, which are equally stunning but take less time to explore.
Célia Pedroso
Metro Portugal