I’ve heard it’s a law in Massachusetts that every Fourth of July menu must include a lobster roll. The Indo’s was bargain priced and overstuffed, but bland. Their food either ignites your taste buds or is a real dud. The simplicity of grilled asparagus with a poached egg, parmesan, and truffle oil trumped anything else I tried. As patrons we have an inalienable right to cozy seating, however, the stools at the restaurant bar are beyond uncomfortable. The actual bar side is far more snug and moodily lit, but not so much that you can’t play Connect Four.
Weekends the bar stays open until 2 a.m., but the scene seemed subdued at midnight on a Friday. On the ride home, my chatty cab driver speculated that people are being homebodies, because they’re broke. Recession may loom, but life, liberty, and the pursuit of dynamite drinks will hopefully never fizzle.
The Independent
75 Union Square, Somerville
617-440-6022
www.theindo.com