Oh what fun it is to get drunk in Publick

 Let’s face it, people, Stella Artois is barely a Belgian beer. I’m just as guilty as the next guy on that front; so thirsty co-worker in tow, I headed for Brookline’s The Publick House to get the only education that comes with foam on top.

Smack dab in Washington Square sits this veritable hobbit hole, an ideal sanctuary from the inescapable New England winter. The distinctively rustic and mon-astic feel of the ’Lick is enhanced by the ecclesiastical trappings — wooden church pews and thrones last seen on an altar — used for seating.

Hopheads of the world unite and take over this bar to sample one (or more) of the seemingly limitless list of craft beers. Whether you’re a brew master or budding novice, you’ll be duly impressed by their commitment to all things sudsy and the fact that specialty ales are served in appropriate glassware, and at the correct temperature.

The focus is on cuisine à la bière: food both cooked with and meant to be accompanied by beer. Standouts include any of the moules frites (that’s mussels and fries to the layperson) — there are six varietals on the menu. Do as a Belgian would and dip your fries in any of the beer-enhanced mayos. Like most portions, the entrée pot of mussels is too much for one, but you’ll run out of frites before you even make a dent.

The beer menu is devoid of descriptions, which is a minus, but I’ve heard tell of a mysterious brew bible in the Monk’s Cell — a bar within the bar specializing in Belgian beers, and going there would have been the only thing that could have made the truly great experience even better.

The Publick House
1648 Beacon St., Brookline
MBTA: Green C Line to
Washington Square
617-277-2880